A multiplicity of steps indeed. And to prove that this last-found set was truly the correct path to the top, some people we passed later on went up on them and reached the top ere we gained the ground.

But at this point, regretfully, we turned back for the descent. This was, of course, a good bit worse than the ascent, and we managed most of it only by dint of sitting down on the rocks and pushing ourselves down in a most ignominious and disgraceful fashion, lugging our camera bag behind us. Amongst the difficulties of the descent was the added problem of heat; the strong sun had so heated the surfaces of the rocks as to make it quite possible to burn your had simply by keeping it on the stone for a few minutes. I wouldn't have been surprised had eggs sizzled and water boiled after a few minutes on the rocks.

Our guide book had promised an easy route to Soolai Bazar and Achyutaraya's Temple from Matunga Parvatam. But it was now after two and we had much to see before the long trek back to our hotel. (We had decided to walk back, so that we could stop at the various places of interest along the way.) And after all, we had seen them in passing. So, regretfully, we turned our backs on Matunga Parvatam and made our way down the bazar towards the towering spire of the Virupaksha Temple.

This was very much a practising temple, crowded even at this scorching hour of day, so after a brief look around the courtyard, we quickly exited. Also known as the Pampapati Temple, parts of it are said to predate the very existence of the Vijayanagar empire. Now renovated and painted in bright colors, it had, for us, no allure.

We climbed to the spacious complex of Jaina Temples on the Hemkuta hill just behind. These delightful temples were small with decorated, delicately worked roofs. They stood clustered in twos and threes, with some hidden behind the others. Inside they were plain. The complex was in parts bounded by a natural wall of rocks. One entire length afforded a view of the inner courtyard of the Virupaksha Temple below.

We lingered awhile, but time was short, we had a long walk ahead and other sights still to see. We headed first to the Krishna Temple which we had visited briefly yesterday, after "lunch". It was here that we first came across zealous security officials who informed us that photography using a stand or tripod was not allowed. Startled, we explained that this was a plain 'stills' camera, no video and if we were allowed take pictures, why on earth couldn't we use the stand? To this, at various venues, we got various responses, ranging from "ask my boss" to "don't ask me, I'm only doing as I've been told" to an explanation as to how the Government was anxious to prevent anyone from taking good photos!

Perhaps, for some small consideration, these zealous officials would have found their attentions diverted while we set up shop - but we didn't explore this route.